What “designing a t-shirt for production” actually means
A great t-shirt is not just a graphic on a blank. It is a carefully specified garment with a deliberate fit, the right fabric for its purpose, a print or decoration method that suits the design, and a finishing standard that signals the brand. Designing a t-shirt for production means moving from creative idea to a complete specification a manufacturer can cost and produce against.
Whether you are launching a fashion brand, producing merchandise for an artist, or creating uniforms for a business, the steps below apply.
Step 1: Define the t-shirt fit and pattern
The fit is what most people remember about a t-shirt. The same graphic on a great-fitting t-shirt and a poorly-fitting t-shirt produces two very different products.
The decisions to make:
- Overall fit: regular, slim, oversized, boxy, or relaxed
- Neckline: crew, v-neck, scoop, or henley
- Sleeve style: standard, raglan, dropped shoulder, or rolled cuff
- Length: standard, cropped, or extended
- Shaping: side seams shaped or straight, taper at the waist or boxy
The easiest way to define a fit is to find an existing t-shirt that fits how you want yours to fit, and use it as a fit reference. A manufacturer can replicate a fit far more accurately from a physical reference than from a description alone.
Step 2: Choose fabric and weight
T-shirt fabric is measured in grams per square metre (GSM). The range you typically work with:
- 140 to 160 GSM: lightweight, soft, drapes well, often used for fashion-forward and women’s t-shirts
- 180 to 200 GSM: the most common weight, balanced between comfort and structure
- 220 to 240 GSM: heavyweight, premium feel, holds shape, common in streetwear and merchandise
Beyond weight, consider:
- Cotton type: combed cotton is softer than carded, ringspun is softer still, organic certified cotton is increasingly expected
- Yarn: single jersey is standard; interlock and pique offer different textures
- Blends: 100% cotton is the heritage standard; cotton-elastane blends offer stretch; tri-blends (cotton-poly-rayon) offer drape
A heavier, better-quality fabric raises the perceived value of the t-shirt more than almost any other decision. It is one of the highest-leverage choices you can make in the design process.
Step 3: Decide on print or decoration method
The right print method depends on your design, colour count, and order volume:
| Method | Best For | Min Order | Cost Per Print |
|---|---|---|---|
| Direct-to-garment (DTG) | Photographic, full-colour designs, small runs | 1 unit | £4 to £8 |
| Screen print | Bold, limited-colour designs, larger runs | 25 to 50 | £1 to £4 |
| Embroidery | Logos, small designs, premium feel | 25 to 50 | £2 to £6 |
| Sublimation | All-over prints on poly fabrics | 25 to 50 | £6 to £12 |
| Heat transfer | Numbers, names, simple shapes | 1 unit | £2 to £5 |
For a fashion brand t-shirt with a graphic, screen print on cotton is the most common and durable choice. For artist merchandise with detailed artwork, DTG or sublimation may suit better.
Step 4: Build a tech pack
A tech pack documents everything the manufacturer needs to produce your t-shirt:
- Technical drawing with measurements at every key point of measure
- Fabric specification (weight, composition, supplier)
- Trims and components (neck tape, labels, threads)
- Print artwork at production resolution with placement specification
- Construction notes (seam types, stitching colour, finishing)
- Care label content
- Packaging requirements
A good tech pack is the difference between a t-shirt that arrives correct and a t-shirt that arrives close-but-not-quite.
Step 5: Find a manufacturer that matches your volume and method
UK t-shirt manufacturers typically work with minimums of 50 to 200 units per style and colourway. European partners (Portugal, Turkey) often start similarly. Indian and Bangladeshi factories can be more flexible at the lower end. Larger volumes (1,000+) open up the most competitive pricing, particularly in Bangladesh and Turkey.
Vet each candidate by:
- Requesting references from current brand clients
- Reviewing certifications (GOTS, OEKO-TEX, Fair Trade)
- Ordering a paid sample
- Asking explicit questions about subcontracting and overtime
Step 6: Sample, fit, and approve
The sample is where the design meets reality. Order at least one sample per style and review:
- Fit on a real fit model in your target size
- Fabric weight, hand-feel, and colour
- Print or decoration quality and placement
- Construction at neck, shoulder, and side seams
- Finishing details (label, packaging, hangtag)
Approve production only when the sample is right.
What does t-shirt production actually cost?
Indicative production costs at low volumes (50 to 100 units):
- 180 GSM cotton crew neck, no print: £6 to £10 per unit
- 220 GSM cotton crew neck, screen print front: £9 to £14 per unit
- 180 GSM cotton crew neck, embroidered logo: £10 to £15 per unit
- 240 GSM premium cotton, screen print front and back: £14 to £22 per unit
- Organic cotton, GOTS certified, screen print: £12 to £18 per unit
Add packaging, fulfilment, returns provision, and brand margin to reach a retail price.
A premium 240 GSM organic cotton t-shirt with a considered print can retail at £40 to £65 from a small brand if the brand story, photography, and customer fit support it. The product cost is rarely the limiting factor.
Where to start
If you have a t-shirt idea and want to move it towards production, the next step is to find a fit reference t-shirt and write a draft tech pack. Even a rough version is far more useful than a description, and it transforms the conversations you can have with manufacturers.
For founders who want a complete production process from idea to delivered product, the design and sampling service is built around exactly that. The BTDB Fashion Founders Course covers product development in depth across 12 chapters. And if you want to talk through a specific project, the contact page is the place to start.
