[00:00] Introduction
Welcome back. I’m Bhavna Rishi, and this episode is one I genuinely wish had existed when I was starting out — because the manufacturing relationship is where so many fashion brands either take flight or fall apart completely. Over more than 20 years producing licensed merchandise and fashion ranges for organisations including the V&A Museum, the British Museum, Chatsworth House, and Iconic Images, I’ve worked with manufacturers across the UK, Europe, India, Portugal, and beyond. I’ve had partnerships that were genuinely transformative, and I’ve witnessed disasters that cost founders everything they had.
Finding the right manufacturer is not a lucky break. It’s a process, and it’s one you can learn. That’s what this episode is about.
“Finding the right manufacturer is not a lucky break. It is a process — and once you understand it, you have a significant competitive advantage over every founder who skips it.”
[04:00] Why Cheapest Is Almost Never Best
Let me start with the most common mistake, because it’s the one I see regardless of whether a founder has a budget of £5,000 or £500,000. The instinct to find the lowest price is understandable — margins in fashion are tight and startup capital is precious. But cheapest almost never means best value, and in manufacturing the gap between price and quality can wipe out your entire profit margin on a single production run.
I worked with a founder who found a manufacturer overseas offering a unit cost roughly 40% lower than anyone else she had spoken to. She placed an order for 500 units without requesting samples, without a written agreement, and without any due diligence on the factory’s capacity. The goods arrived three weeks late, the stitching on 30% of units was below acceptable standard, and the colourways were noticeably different from what had been agreed. She sold what she could at a discount, absorbed the rest as dead stock, and had to start her manufacturer search again from scratch — having lost both time and money she couldn’t recover. That is not an unusual story. It is a common one.
[08:30] The Questions Every Founder Must Ask
Before you commit to any manufacturer, there is a set of non-negotiable questions I use with every client I work with. First: what is your minimum order quantity and is there any flexibility for first orders? Second: can you provide references from brands at a similar scale to mine? Third: what is your standard lead time from order confirmation to delivery, and what happens if that slips? Fourth: do you hold any ethical trading or sustainability certifications, and can I see them? Fifth: what does your quality control process look like at each stage of production?
These questions do more than gather information — they tell you immediately how a manufacturer operates. A manufacturer who bristles at being asked for references, who gives vague answers about lead times, or who cannot produce documentation for certifications they claim to hold is telling you something important. Listen to it.
[13:00] Evaluating Samples and Reading Red Flags
Sampling is your single most important quality gate in the entire production process. I will say that as plainly as I can: never, under any circumstances, go into full production without approving a sample. Not even if the manufacturer has glowing reviews. Not even if you’ve worked with them before. Every new product needs a sample round.
When you receive your first sample, you are looking at several things simultaneously. Does the construction match your tech pack specifications? Is the fabric weight and quality consistent with what was agreed? Do the colourways match your approved references? How is the finishing — the seams, the fastenings, the labels? And critically: does it feel like something your customer would be proud to own? A red flag in sampling is not necessarily a reason to walk away — it can be a perfectly normal part of the iterative process. But a manufacturer who refuses to make revisions, who charges excessive fees for each sample round, or who tells you the production version will “definitely be better” without explaining how — those are warning signs you take seriously.
“Never go into full production without approving a sample. Not even if they have glowing reviews. Not even if you’ve worked with them before. Every new product needs a sample round.”
[17:00] MOQs, Negotiation, and Protecting Yourself Contractually
Minimum order quantities are one of the most intimidating elements for small brands, and I understand why. Many manufacturers have MOQs that feel completely out of reach when you’re starting out. But MOQs are more negotiable than most founders realise — particularly if you can demonstrate that you’re a serious, organised brand with clear documentation and a professional approach. A well-prepared tech pack and a confident, informed conversation can unlock flexibility that a vague enquiry never will.
On the contractual side, please do not skip this step. I have seen founders hand over deposits of £10,000 or more on nothing more than an email exchange. You need a written agreement that covers your unit specification, the agreed price per unit, payment terms, delivery timescales, what happens if delivery is late, and what the remediation process is for defective goods. This does not need to be an intimidating legal document — but it does need to exist. If a manufacturer tells you a contract is unnecessary because you can “just trust them,” that is precisely the moment you walk away.
[21:30] UK vs Overseas Manufacturing
I’m often asked whether small brands should manufacture in the UK or look overseas, and the honest answer is that it depends on your product, your values, your budget, and your timeline. UK manufacturing typically carries higher unit costs, but it also offers shorter lead times, easier communication, and the genuine appeal of a “Made in Britain” story — which carries real weight with certain customers and stockists. Overseas manufacturing, particularly in Portugal, India, or parts of Asia, can dramatically reduce unit costs, but it requires more rigorous vetting, longer lead times, and more sophisticated logistics management.
The brands I’ve seen succeed with overseas manufacturing are the ones who invest time upfront in the relationship — ideally visiting the factory before placing a significant order. That factory visit changes everything. You see the working conditions, you meet the people, you understand the capability. The brands who place large orders with factories they’ve never visited are the ones who end up surprised when the goods don’t match expectations.
[26:00] Managing the Relationship During Production
Finding the right manufacturer is step one. Managing the relationship well over time is step two, and it matters just as much. Once production begins, I recommend building in formal check-in points — at the point raw materials are confirmed, at the midpoint of production, and before goods are shipped. This is not micromanaging; it’s professional project management, and good manufacturers expect and respect it.
Communication style matters enormously here. Be specific, be documented, and be consistent. Every instruction you give should be in writing. Every revision should be confirmed in writing. This protects both parties and eliminates the ambiguity that is the root cause of most production disputes.
“Be specific, be documented, and be consistent. Every instruction in writing, every revision confirmed in writing. Ambiguity is the root cause of most production disputes.”
[29:00] Key Takeaways
Never choose a manufacturer on price alone. Value is the combination of quality, reliability, communication, and capacity — not just the number on the quote.
Ask the hard questions before you commit: references, certifications, lead times, quality control processes. The answers — and the way they’re given — tell you everything.
Sample every new product, every time. This is your quality gate and you cannot afford to skip it.
Get everything in writing. A deposit paid without a written agreement is a risk you cannot justify taking.
Build the relationship over time. The manufacturers who become long-term partners are the ones you communicate with clearly, consistently, and professionally from day one.
[31:00] Action Step
Before you approach any manufacturer this week, write down your three non-negotiables — the things you will not compromise on, whether that’s MOQ flexibility, ethical certification, or UK-based production. Knowing your non-negotiables before you start a conversation means you’ll make decisions from clarity rather than pressure.
Ready to Take the Next Step?
If you are building a fashion brand and want expert guidance, book a free discovery call with Bhavna.